More Drywall and Plaster CONTRACTORS

Drywall Basics:

Drywall is a type of board used to build interior walls of houses. Generally, drywall is made of gypsum plaster or wood pulp that has been sandwiched in between very thick sheets of paper.

Drywall installation is often much faster and cheaper than other means of putting in walls. The problem is that you may need to repair it often because of its flimsiness. 

Drywall is generally prone to damage from a variety of elements and often needs repair. For example, to protect against water, you can use covalent waterproofing to seal the drywall off from water exposure and thus, mitigate the need for frequent repair.

If you don’t do this, or if the waterproofing layer isn’t thick enough, the paper in the drywall will swell with water. This makes it the perfect environment for mold. Many people are allergic to mold and it can wreak havoc on a person’s respiratory system.

It’s usually a good idea to avoid using drywall in any area that has any kind of serious exposure to water, such as bathrooms, or in very humid climates for this reason.

Drywall Uses:

Drywall is used in a variety of situations. For example, drywall is often used to help fight potential fires. This is because of the natural water content of gypsum. When a fire rages through a building, the drywall will crumble and fall apart quickly. This makes it much harder for heat to transfer through to the next building. It acts as a natural firewall to mitigate how much repair a building may need.

Just like in a forest where firefighters trying to stop a raging forest fire will burn down a section of the forest on purpose, drywall serves as a natural firewall since it burns so quickly and leaves empty spaces in between parts of a building. This will help save on costs associated with needing to repair places that are damaged because of fire.

Materials and Tools for Drywall Installation:

Items you’ll need to install drywall include utility knife, drywall hammer or a drill, a real straight edge, drywall square, and lots of nails or screws.

Drywall Information:

Drywall—also known as plasterboard or wallboard— is often associated with buildings or rooms that have to go up in a hurry. Those building very cheap houses may also use drywall in parts to make quick rooms and save on costs.

The extreme flimsiness of drywall makes it a problem in many cases, however, you barely need to knock drywall with your elbow to put a hole in it and shoot cough-inducing powder all over the place.

Drywall Qualifications:

Those using drywall hardly need to have advanced degrees due to its simplicity. But if you’re going to use someone else to put up drywall, then it’s a good idea to make sure they have basic certifications or membership in a construction union.

Publish by: Italian Plasterworks

Lime has the following beneficial qualities:

Correctly formulated as a truly sustainable lime paint or plaster, a pure, natural lime does not include any artificial admixtures, plastics, or harmful chemicals.

In our view, sustainable structures should be designed to breathe, just as we do. If a building envelope is too air tight, moisture can become trapped inside.

One of the outstanding benefits of using lime as an internal or external finish is its high porosity. bioLime allows you to build permeable wall systems, eliminating standing condensation. A lime-finished structure "breathes", enabling moisture to evaporate.

If you're building in a damp or tropical climate, preventing moisture damage is especially critical. Using lime as a finishing material will enable you to build structures that prohibit moisture, bacteria, mold, and mildew from forming within the building envelope.

Lime paints and plasters can tolerate damp and sea-side applications that would normally de-laminate acrylic-based plasters, latex-based paints, conventional stuccos, and even Portland cement and Gypsum-based plasters.

Lime is mold-resistant and a natural biocide. Due to lime's high pH (between 12-12.5), it serves to reduce indoor air pollutants, while making the structure hygienically sound and easy to clean.

When structures made of lime are subjected to small movements, they are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks, which occur in stiffer cement-bound structures. Water penetration into these fine cracks can dissolve "free" lime and bring it to the surface. As the water evaporates, this lime is then "re-deposited" and begins to self-fuse, healing the cracks.

This explains why some old lime structures on non-stable foundations distort with age, but do not fail.

Often, soft lime paints and plasters are used as protection for structures, particularly from severe rain. In essence, these lime products act "sacrificially" in protecting buildings.

Amazingly, when designed correctly, lime will not allow penetrating water to enter a structure.

Lime is exceptionally durable. The Pantheon, the classic temple in Rome, is constructed of lime and spans over 140 feet. Incredibly, this beautiful structure has lasted nearly 1,900 years. Lime's durability is evident throughout the ages.

Lime surfaces feature a beautiful luminescence and are pleasing to the senses. A lime-finished structure enhances comfort, tranquility, and a communion with the Earth.

For more than 7,500 years, lime has served as the principal binder in mortar, plaster, render, and lime wash. Dating back to the days of ancient Egypt, Greek, and Rome, and throughout the civilized world–and during the golden age of lime in the 19^th century and up to modern times–lime paints and plasters have proven themselves as extremely durable and resilient.

Content provided by BioLime

Whether unwanted rain seeped in your home or a pipe leaked, drywall water damage can be fixed by those do-it-yourselfers. When water damages do occur, first find the source of the leak and shut it down. Remove the damaged area by using a utility knife to cut out a square – it will be easier to replace if it is cut out this way. Let the area dry out with a dehumidifier or high intensity fan for at least half of a day. A new piece of drywall must be replaced once the area is completely dry. Use the damaged piece as a stencil to outline the replacement piece. Edges can be scored for a secure placement and a wood backing may be attached to the inside of the replacement wall so the new piece has something to be secured to. Fasten the backing with screws. Use a putty knife to apply a layer of joint compound in the seams, then apply joint tape over the seams and smooth. Apply another layer of joint compound and let dry. Sand down the designated area and finish with paint or wallpaper. If furniture was contaminated through the process, wipe it down and place aluminum tinfoil in between furniture and carpeted area to prevent any molding.

Hanging pictures or artwork can leave small nail holes in your drywall, which can be covered with a putty knife and Spackle. Large holes may require drywall replacement but others can be covered with adhesive mesh tape. First, the damaged area must be sanded down to smooth out area. Apply adhesive mesh tape over the hole. Use a putty knife to embed Spackle or joint compound into the patch. Smooth compound over with a putty knife and let dry. Two to three layers of joint compound will do the trick. Let dry and sand for a smooth finish. Larger holes cam be replaced with a new piece of drywall. Begin by cutting out a clean hole in the wall that is either a square or rectangle. Use this piece as a stencil on the new drywall replacement. A utility knife will cut clean edges for the new piece. Secure the new patch in the wall with nails. Apply joint compound in the seams and over the nail heads; smooth with a putty knife. Cover seams again with joint tape and smooth out. Add a final layer of joint compound and let dry. Sand down for a smooth finish then prime and paint.

ORANGE PEEL – Make sure this is the desired texture you want, because once it is finished, you are stuck with it. It is becoming most common in households and can be achieved by renting a sprayer. The sprayer releases a light plaster mixture onto finished walls creating an “orange peel” surface. It is easy to maintain as can be wiped down with a damp rag.
SPANISH DRAG – It’s a natural and inconsistent look that is also becoming increasingly popular in households. Walls must be sprayed with a texture hopper, then a trowel is used to spread and create texture. It must be sealed with a primer.
SLAP BRUSH WITH PLASTER – Also known as “crow’s feet,” “tiger’s skin,” or “palm texture,” this finish was made for those do-it-yourselfers. The wall must first be watered down to create a wet surface. A traditional way to achieve this look is to pre-soak a paintbrush for a half-hour then slap the brush quickly onto the wet wall. Be sure to rotate the brush to keep a somewhat consistent look. It does require priming before and after.
VENETIAN PLASTER – This technique is centuries old and originated in Venice, Italy. It is the most expensive and sophisticated look that comes off as a marbled texture. With over 100 colors, Venetian plaster never needs to be painted and lasts years. It can be applied with a trowel and be a coated a couple times to create thickness.
SPRAY APPLICATION – This inexpensive application is created with a sprayer that can be either rented or bought.

Plaster can usually be saved unless it’s crumbled or there is a massive hole. Plaster cracks are usually caused by a drastic change in moisture. They can be fixed by first brushing away all loose plaster in the crack. Mix joint compound until it has the consistency of toothpaste and no lumps. Use a putty knife to embed into cracks and apply joint tape over the crack. Apply another layer of joint compound and let dry. Use a rubber float to smooth out. Larger holes can be fixed nearly the same way. First the area must be sanded down and dampened. Plaster or joint compound can be mixed at home – pre-mixed solutions tend to not stick as well. Make sure plaster is lump free, and let sit for several minutes to stiffen. Use a trowel to apply plaster and let dry. Three coats should be applied, but each one must be dried before the next one is lathered on. Sand for a smooth finish and seal with a primer. Holes that are much deeper, possibly from a doorknob can be a little trickier. Wire mesh is used to patch the hole but instead of applying it on the surface, it will be placed behind the wall. This can be done by threading a string through a wire mesh hole and inserting the wire mesh into the damaged plaster hole; pull the string to keep the wire mesh tight at the underside of the surface. The string can be wrapped around the pencil so the pencil is holding the mesh against the wall. Holding the string tight in one hand, use a putty knife to re-plaster the hole in the other; work the plaster into the wire mesh as you go. Remove the pencil and string once plaster is smoothed out above and below the pencil and smooth the whole area with the putty knife. Let dry then apply two more layers, sand and prime.

This ancient stuccoed coating was originally created in Venice, Italy in the 1500s. It is still widely used today with some additional modern touches. There are nearly 120 colors and tints available and can be bought at virtually any home décor shop. It’s easy to apply as well – after some practice – and it doesn’t need to be painted. Plus, it lasts for many years and has a clean, marbled look. All you need is a trowel and sandpaper. Experimenting on some extra slabs of drywall first may be helpful to achieve the textures you want as well as the desired color. Walls should be hole and dirt-free, and sanded down if the surface is glossy. First, lay a drop cloth down, and begin at a bottom corner. Apply the first thin layer using long strokes and angles. Keep the trowel relatively clean and wipe off excess plaster from time to time so unwanted dried plaster doesn’t get into the mix. Apply the second coat using the same technique in the opposite direction. When dry, burnish the surface by lightly rubbing it down with fine sandpaper in a circular motion.